Another key difference is that Shatabdi has been taken over by the corporate types who shuttle between the two cities for meetings; but lalbagh is the family train and it feels very homely out here – everyones speaking Tamil here, inc the pantry staff who are warm and chatty

Mine is the last seat and the various aromas of food, stale perfumes, cigarette and urine are in my nostrils and I just can’t sleep , the pantry car is overworked – vendors servg vadai, upma and dosa are here by the minute , coffee, tea, biscuits added as well .

I’m havg a tough time asking co pax to close the door of the compartment every time they step out to the wash or to smoke . The genial ticket collector is at it too, but folks are too lost in their own world to worry about my nostrils. Personally I think smokers should go to non ac coaches for a puff .

7:25 A mother has created a cradle for her baby from a saree which is currently dangling from the luggage carrier – a bright orange and green cotton saree with knots on top holds the infant and it keeps swaying – a jerky “thalattu” is what the babys experiencing probably now

750 The orange sun is getting harsher by the day , as the green countryside is filled with a golden hue – there are fields, forests, hills where the tracks cut across ; not much of towns and people as such .

805 The dosa is now tempting – idli is over he says – I order a plate for RS 30 and I get two reasonably tasty dosas with a spoonful of potato and onion masala and its not greasy or oily . I prefer my dosas thin but this is thick , but better than kal dosa – no vada and no chutney I say . I ask him how many dosas they prepare in a day and he parrots 2 in a plate for 30 bucks . I repeat my question and he says ” ellam vyabaram daan ” (all to do with sales)

0815 Train slowing down – we are at kuppam – the platform here is reasonably quiet . I am standing near the door for some space and typing it . I can strongly smell something . My co pax says mangos – a big carton just lands near by . Train just leaves and a bunch of cyclists waiting at the railway crossing heave a sigh of relief as the train starts. Adjacent to the station is a huge dump and a cemetery amidst the trees . The train picks up speed and I am back on my seat yawning as I type this – maybe will sleep for a while and connect again soon . The dosa guy is back to serve the new pax and he gives me a broad grin as he holds the tray on his head with the chutney vessel almost touching the fan . He takes the money from the pax and stuffs the ten rupee notes in his mouth as he balances with one hand , servg them and giving them the change . The door closes on him and my eyes close too